Allantoin Soothing Serum

A calming, lightweight facial serum with allantoin as the hero active. Designed for sensitive and irritated skin with a gentle, minimal-ingredient approach.

Formuley

Written by Tricelle Gray for Formuley.

New listingMarch 13, 2026

Free listing

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Ingredients

Phase	INCI Name	Function	%
A	Water Aqua	Solvent / base	83%
B	Glycerin Glycerin	Humectant	5%
B	Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum	Thickener / stabilizer	0.3%
C	Olivem 1000 Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate	Emulsifier	3%
C	Hemp Seed Oil Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil	Emollient / anti-inflammatory	3%
C	Evening Primrose Oil Oenothera Biennis Oil	Emollient / skin repair	2%
D	Allantoin Allantoin	Active / soothing agent	0.5%
D	Chamomile Extract Matricaria Chamomilla Flower Extract	Active / anti-inflammatory	1%
D	Vitamin E Tocopherol	Antioxidant	0.3%
D	Geogard ECT Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid	Preservative	1%
E	Citric Acid (10% solution) Citric Acid	pH adjuster	0.9%

Procedure

1
Weigh Phase A (water) into a clean beaker.
2
Combine Phase B (glycerin, xanthan gum). Add to Phase A while stirring until gel forms. Heat to 75C.
3
Weigh Phase C (Olivem 1000, hemp seed oil, evening primrose oil). Heat to 75C.
4
Pour Phase C into Phase A/B. Blend with a stick blender for 3 - 5 minutes.
5
Allow to cool to below 40C, stirring occasionally.
6
Add Phase D (allantoin, chamomile extract, Vitamin E, preservative). Mix well.
7
Check pH is between 5.3 - 5.8. Adjust with citric acid.
8
Pour into sterilized containers. Label and date.

Tips & Notes

•Target pH: 5.3 - 5.8.
•Hemp seed oil has a short shelf life-store in the fridge for freshness.
•Evening primrose oil is rich in GLA, ideal for reactive or inflamed skin.
•Allantoin is a gentle cell proliferant; do not exceed 2% in leave-on products.
•This serum uses anti-inflammatory oils (hemp + primrose) vs the HA Serum's hydration focus (CCT + jojoba).